EuroPanache Blog

Lyon Biennale - Contemporary Art

By BobP

Long known for high gastronomy and silk, Lyon has emerged as a regional powerhouse on the contemporary art scene in recent years thanks to its edgy biennale.  "A terrible beauty is born" - a verse from WB Yeats' poem Easter, 1916 about the Irish uprising against the British, is this year's theme.  

Conceived by Argentinian curator Victoria Noorthoorn - and on through December 31^st, it showcases over 70 artists from the world over - mostly from Europe, Africa and Latin America. A theme of "productive contradiction", as in Yeats' poem, is prevalent in the exhibited works.

 

There is art everywhere, but four principal venues are of interest:

• La Sucrière, an old sugar storage facility from the 1930s along the Saône river 
• The Fondation Bullukian, in place Bellcour and dedicated to the Arts, Science and anything Armenian
• The Contemporary Art Museum - designed by Renzo Piano and centrally located in the Cité Internationale complex
• The TASE factory - an old silk factory built in 1924 in the Lyon-Vaulx-en-Velin district.

Bike Riding in Burgundy

by NormaK

There is nothing like Burgundy in the fall. Our guide met us in the lobby of our hotel for a full day of cycling. I wasn’t sure if I could take a full day but I certainly was going to give it a go - drank my protein shake and put on the spandex suit like a true pro.  

After adjusting our bikes for us and giving us a run down of the day’s activities we were on our merry way. It was a glorious autumn day - ideal for discovering the Côtes de Beaune on bike.

We cycled for the first 2 hours on paved roads which was easy enough for this couch potato. Our guide stopped from time to time to point out renowned vineyards with pithy bits of trivia. Apparently, it’s the soil that makes all the difference and the best wines in France come from Burgundy!

We had lunch with a local wine grower who showed us his stone cellar before sitting down to a scrumptious wine-tasting lunch. We were served 7 different wines with a full explanation, selected carefully to go with our lunch menu.

Even if I was feeling a little tipsy, the afternoon ride back to our hotel in Beaune was pleasant enough.  We passed through several villages, including Pommard, Volnay and Meursault.

All in all we cycled about 30 kms with plenty of stops along the way.  What a fabulous way to explore this part of France!  Contact EuroPanache for more information if you want to try this.

 

Visit Roland Garros and take a Behind the Scenes Tour

By NormaK

If you love tennis and would love the chance to step onto Centre Court, then taking a Behind the Scenes tour with EuroPanache is the way to go. For an hour and half with your own personal guide discover Roland Garros from the players’ side.

Your guide will explain to you the history of Roland Garros and share some amazing trivia. Did you know that if a player refuses to give an interview after a match they can be fined!  André Agassi was penalized to the tune of $25,000 once because he refused to give an interview after losing a match!

During this exclusive tour, you will have the opportunity to visit press rooms, the men’s or women’s locker rooms and the interview room. It's fun - we all got a turn to sit in the interview seat and have our photos taken!

 

Our guide told us a little anecdote about Steffi Graff. Apparently the top 10 players each year get to choose which locker they want and for good luck or superstition many pick the same one time after time. Steffi Graff’s favourite was No 19 so after her final match at Roland Garros the French Tennis Federation presented her with the actual locker door and in her honour replaced it with the number 18bis.

From the locker rooms you'll along the same corridor and up the same steps and then out onto centre court just as the players do.

Also part of the visit is the Roland Garros museum. The museum's permanent collection is a bilingual multimedia exhibition showing movie archives from 1897 to today.

There are summaries of games, exclusive interviews with French Open Champions and collections of old programs, tickets and racquets dating from the late 1800s. 

You'll get to see the original jacket worn by Henri Lacoste with the famous stitched crocodile logo.

This was definitely worth a visit - as a tennis buff, I had a lot of fun!

Stunning Cocteau Museum Opens in Menton

by BobP

This weekend, we’re celebrating the long-awaited new Cocteau museum in Menton, a Riviera city near Monaco and the French/Italian border.  Cocteau had a close relationship with the city while living in St Jean de Cap Ferrat in the 1950s. Menton adopted Cocteau as an honorary citizen after he redecorated a local marriage hall with a spectacular series of paintings, ceramics and tapestries.

The new museum houses an extraordinary collection donated by Severin Wunderman, a Belgian-born American art collector, philanthropist, Holocaust survivor and renowned watchmaker, who died in 2008.  His passion for Jean Cocteau began on an impulse.  He was on his way home after picking up his pay-check as an apprentice clockmaker when he spotted, in an antique shop, a drawing by Cocteau dedicated to 'Les Enfants Terribles', depicting Jean Marais in Cocteau's film of the same name. The drawing cost 1600 Belgian francs – just 100 francs less than his pay!   His collection has since increased to over 1760 works.  Wunderman’s generosity and passion for art are well known. In 2005 he received the Légion d'Honneur for his donation, which 'will act as a living monument to Jean Cocteau. 

The museum was built to a design by Rudy Ricciotti that was selected from bids by over 80 architectural firms.  It is a contemporary work of art itself - the facade is coated in shades of black and white, evoking a contemporary design reflecting Cocteau's style. The structure evokes a labyrinth, and plays with elements of light and shadow. It includes spaces for permanent and temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bookstore, an educational center, a café and a conference room. 

The collection presents the poet and artist, of course, but also Jean Cocteau the man. Several works reflect the hidden side of a little known personality. Many photographic portraits show Jean Cocteau both as actor and director, sometimes mundane, sometimes isolated in a deep loneliness. 

The curator of the museum, Mme Célia Bernasconi, looks after a vast number of art works: not only 623 drawings, 177 manuscripts, 272 prints, 70 posters and 30 illustrated books, but also oils, sculptures, jewelry, ceramics, tapestries, glassware and other objects.

A bit of a scandal emerged last summer as art experts squabbled publicly about whether some of the donated pieces were fakes.  The disputed pieces (about 35) are not on display.

The Jean Cocteau Museum also has tributes to the poet's friends. Works by Modigliani, de Chirico, Miro, Fougita, Bernard Buffet and Andy Warhol will also be on permanent display. Cocteau’s Madame Favini and Her Daughter, shown below, is said to have been Picasso’s favorite Cocteau painting.

There is no doubt that this museum will become not only one of the most significant on the Côte d'Azur, but also in Europe.

Birthday dinner cruise onboard Paris' most exclusive yacht

by NormaK

For my birthday celebration last night I chose to dine on board Paris' finest dinner yacht. I had heard many great things about this dinner cruise and wanted to try it out for myself.

Well of course I was not disappointed. As soon as I arrived at the port 2 of the crewmembers where waiting outside to welcome me and once on board the Maître d’ took me to the outside lounge while I waited for my friend to arrive. For an autumn night it was very mild outside and I sat sipping my champagne while I waited.

Once my friend arrived we were shown to our table and it was time to depart. The dinner cruise is more like a moving restaurant, if you are expecting something touristy then this is far from that, there is no commentary in 5 languages on what is on right and what is on left. What is offered is a gourmet 4-course dinner, a ‘tasting menu’ on the River Seine by chef Guy Krenzer, on an exclusive and very elegant European yacht.

As a starter we were offered lobster, which was deliciously meaty and tender; a chicken dish, which was served at the carving table, followed this. At the end of the main course we stopped by the Eiffel Tower and arrived just as the light show started. Each of the women was given a red blanket to put over our shoulders as we went upstairs on deck.

We waited here until the end of the light spectacular then went back downstairs for the return cruise back to Port Henri IV. On the return we enjoyed a cheese platter, followed by a profiteroles dessert and coffee.

This would have to be one of the most elegant dining experiences I have had whilst in Paris. This floating gourmet restaurant offers 14 individual tables all placed alongside the windows to give you the maximum views, Italian leather furniture, beautiful porcelain, outdoor seating, discrete lighting, linen drapes, impeccable service and a 2 ¾ hour cruise on the Seine.

Highly recommend it for a special occasion!

Paris' Covered Walkways

by BobP

As winter approaches, Parisians flock to covered walkways - called galeries or passages - to avoid the cold as they shop and people-watch in cafés.  Most of these date from the 19th century and are on the right bank.  Each has its own character and style.  Here are a few of my favourites...

Right Bank

Galerie Vivienne (Métro Bourse or Palais Royal)
Near the Place des Victoires, Vivienne is one of Paris' most spectactular covered walkways replete with mosaics inspired by Pompeii, glass ceilings, a half-rotunda, and nymph-statures. The walkway houses smart boutiques, home-deco stores, Jean Paul Gauthier's boutique and a lovely tea-room with delicious cakes.  Highly recommended!

Passage Colbert
Adjacent to Vivienne, this walkway is terribly majestic with italianate columns, murals and fresias, but it leaves me cold. Since being requisitioned by the state University Paris VII and Paris I, it has lost all of its soul.  The glass roof is immaculate and the rotunda is picture-perfect.  There is an entrance to the famous 1930s-style brasserie Le Grand Colbert, which is pricey.   Worth a quick glance, but you'll have a lot more fun spending time next door.   

Passage du Grand Cerf (Metro Sentier)
In the trendy Montorgueil area, this walkway has Paris' tallest glazed roof- about 12m high.  It is thought to date to 1825, but the glass roof was added later.  Today, there are many fashionable/hip boutiques and a Brazilian restaurant. 

Passage de Choiseul (Métro Quatre Séptembre)
Near the grands boulevards, this is the longest covered walkway in Paris - 190m.  It was inaugurated in 1827.  Each shop has a main floor and mezzanine.  Its peak was in the 1970s, when Kenzo opened his Paris boutique here, but he moved it to Place des Victoires since, so the walkway is less frequented now.

 

Passage des Panoramas (Metro Richelieu - Drouot)
This is one of the oldest covered walkways in Paris.  Originally built in 1799 to link two rotundas in which James Thayer projected panaromas - very popular at the time. Luxury boutiques bordered the walkway at the time.  Even with the phasing out of "panoramas" in the 1830s, the walkways were still popular thanks to their location near Paris' grand boulevards and theaters.  The Panorama walkway consists of one main gallery and five smaller annexes.  

 

Passage Jouffroy
Inaugurated in 1847, Jouffroy is one of the most recent covered walkways. It has an iron and glass structure and is quite luminous. Even today, it houses interesting specialized boutiques and the Grévin wax museum, which is modelled after Madame Tussaud's in London.

 

Passage Verdeau

• Just behind Jouffroy, this walkway is similar but a lot narrower than the other two in the area.  It is very luminous though and is worth a visit!

Especially on winter days, a nice stroll along these 3 long walkways is enjoyable, and there are many cool shops (with antiques, old photos, books, posters, home-deco) and cafés. 

People-watching is very fun too, as you'll see a motley bunch of Parisians out and about.

 

Left Bank

Passage Cour du Commerce Saint André (Métro Odéon)
Originally opened in 1735 to connect two jeu de paume (real tennis) courts, this partially covered walkway is historic.  Benjamin Franklin edited parts of the US constitution at Le Procope, Paris' oldest still-operating restaurant, and Voltaire, Rousseau and Diderot were frequent patrons.  There are still lovely shops, restaurants and tea-rooms.

Salon du Chocolat - Paris

by BobP

 

If you like chocolate, then this is the show for you!  It can be a bit whacky - a few years ago, they had a fashion show with models dressed in chocolate bars, many of which fell off as they sashayed along the runway.

Meet cocoa growers, chocolatiers and bakers.  There are baking demos, celebrations and performances.  Lots of free samples too!

Paris - Porte de Versailles - October 20-24.

 

 

 

Proof's in the ... bread!

by BobP

The first traces of bread flour carbon-date back to the Upper Paleolithic period in Europe - about 30,000 BC. Evidence of yeast usage to make bread rise dates back to ancient Egypt (10,000 BC).  

      

Gauls and Iberians used hops from beer to make bread rise in Southern Europe well before Jesus rose from the dead. Sourdough (day old dough that fermented) was used at the time for the same effect. Amazing loaves preserved from Pompei after Vesuvius erupted back in 2 AD show that modern-day bread loaves were prevalent at the time. Murals of communal bakeries there show that bread was a mainstay.

    

Some of the best bread today is found in the Middle East and North Africa. This summer, I was with a small group of family/friends traveling in Cappadocia (Turkey).  We happened on a remote village with a communal oven used for baking and asked our driver to stop.  Women were baking flat breads for their families. The smell was pure manna from heaven.  The ladies offered us a loaf - it was AMAZING - the best bread I've ever eaten!  After they saw we liked it - they offered us more.  They were so proud and genuinely happy to see that we loved their bread!  We offered them a little money yet they were reluctant to take it. 

Funny, they were dirt-poor, yet very generous at heart - a world apart from the smug debating politicians and swarmy televangelists we see on TV every day. 

 

In France, we are lucky to have fantastic breads made daily in small bakeries everywhere. Alsatian bakeries have the greatest variety - they produce many fabulous German seed-breads, beautifully knotted/braided loaves and salty Bretzlen. In Provence, we have amazing Fougasses too - stuffed with olives, herbs, onion or cheese.

 

To this old, heretic shoe, there is nothing better than a fresh, warm baguette, unpasteurized cheese (Camembert, Roquefort Reblochon, Munster, St Félicien...), sour cornichons, a little roquette salad and a glass of St Emilion.  

Heaven on Earth! 

Boston treats - Mike's Pastry Shop

by AshleyB

Paul Revere’s House, Fanueil Hall, Harvard, MIT, the Red Socks, the Commons … Boston is known for its rich history and diverse culture. 

As a true Southern Belle with a sweet tooth to boot, I forgot all that and made a beeline to the perfect meringue à la Mike’s Pastry Shop as soon as I arrived.

Any first-timer to Boston with so much as the slightest sweet tooth must be sure not to miss out on the mouth watering goodness of Mike’s Pastry shop. Located in Boston’s historical North End neighborhood, one cannot walk down the streets without crossing passer bys with a happy look of satisfaction on their faces, white and blue Mike’s cartons in hand.

When I walked inside, I was immediately overwhelmed by the choice – Italian pastries, cupcakes, pies, meringues, cookies – every possible baked good you can image sat daintily inside the lit cabinets while at least a dozen servers wrapped up orders. String hangs from the ceiling, directly led to the notorious pastry boxes so it can be easily wrapped around for safe keeping and portability in the quickest of gestures.

Pictures of cannoli, Mike’s most famous pastry, line the walls in all sizes and flavors. The choice is infinite but must be made. I opt for a Boston Cream Pie... when in Rome, right? And why not, a taste of a lemon cannoli as well. As I walk along the riverside back to my downtown hotel, I am stopped at least three times by someone admiring this newly acquired box to ask where they can find the pastry shop themselves.

Then the time comes to actually taste it. After the visual explosion in the shop itself, the delightful odor as I walked through the streets of Boston, my taste buds could no longer take the suspense. The cream pie was first – savory, intense, melt in your mouth flavor better than any cream pie I have ever tasted. The cannoli was just as satisfying. Its flaky homemade crust perfectly housed the lemon interior, a perfect mix of tangy and sweet. In short, the most delicious pastries in which I have ever indulged.

 

Menton - magnifique!

by BobP

They always say to question conventional wisdom.  I long-ago concluded, in the height of my youthful arrogance, that Menton - a border town on the French/Italian Riviera, was without interest.  Dario and his glam friend Faye from London have proven me wrong!  The town's name means chin in French, and I can assure, after a second look, that its double is worth seeing.

      

The coastal part is a disappointing routine of 1970s crap-architecture, fast-food joints, casinos and tourist-traps.  Over this cloud, there is a silver lining. If you're willing to huff-and-puff your way up serpentine paths into old Menton, you'll be in for a nice surprise!  Views of St Michael's church and from the cemetery are fantastic.

Menton's history goes way back.  Remains of neanderthal and cro-magnon have been found here.  Portions of the ancient Roman road from Piacenza to Arles are still visible. The first historical mention of the city goes back to the late 12th century.  Since then, it has successively been governed by many, including the Grimaldi's of Monaco, Sardinian Kings, Napoleon III, Mussolini's Italy (during WWII), the Vichy/Nazi regime and once again by France.

In addition to the old town (Vieux Menton), of interest are the covered market (daily) and the Lemon Festival every February.  The latter is a kitsch/flamboyant event bordering on debauchery with monuments all decked out in citrus, circus acts, flame throwers, floats with citrus-laden beauty and drag dancing queens, and many other festivities. There is a theme every year.  In 2012, it'll be all about Sports - the Fête du Citron will run from Feb 17th to March 7th. 

Jean Cocteau lived in Menton, as did the English author Yeats, who passed away here in 1939.  Menton is a short drive from Monaco / Nice.